A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers.     

S Grant  T Hasler  C Davies  T C Aitchison  J Wilson  A Whittaker 《Journal of sports sciences》2001,19(7):499-505

There is limited information on the anthropometry, strength, endurance and flexibility of female rock climbers. The aim of this study was to compare these characteristics in three groups of females: Group 1 comprised 10 elite climbers aged 31.3 +/- 5.0 years (mean +/- s) who had led to a standard of 'hard very severe'; Group 2 consisted of 10 recreational climbers aged 24.1 +/- 4.0 years who had led to a standard of 'severe'; and Group 3 comprised 10 physically active individuals aged 28.5 +/- 5.0 years who had not previously rock-climbed. The tests included finger strength (grip strength, finger strength measured on climbing-specific apparatus), flexibility, bent arm hang and pull-ups. Regression procedures (analysis of covariance) were used to examine the influence of body mass, leg length, height and age. For finger strength, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values (P < 0.05) than the recreational climbers and non-climbers (four fingers, right hand: elite 321 +/- 18 N, recreational 251 +/- 14 N, non-climbers 256 +/- 15 N; four fingers, left hand: elite 307 +/- 14 N, recreational 248 +/- 12 N, non-climbers 243 +/- 11 N). For grip strength of the right hand, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values than the recreational climbers only (elite 338 +/- 12 N, recreational 289 +/- 10 N, non-climbers 307 +/- 11 N). The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength than recreational climbers and non-climbers.  相似文献   

The role of effort in moderating the anxiety-performance relationship: Testing the prediction of processing efficiency theory in simulated rally driving     

Wilson M  Smith NC  Chattington M  Ford M  Marple-Horvat DE 《Journal of sports sciences》2006,24(11):1223-1233

We tested some of the key predictions of processing efficiency theory using a simulated rally driving task. Two groups of participants were classified as either dispositionally high or low anxious based on trait anxiety scores and trained on a simulated driving task. Participants then raced individually on two similar courses under counterbalanced experimental conditions designed to manipulate the level of anxiety experienced. The effort exerted on the driving tasks was assessed though self-report (RSME), psychophysiological measures (pupil dilation) and visual gaze data. Efficiency was measured in terms of efficiency of visual processing (search rate) and driving control (variability of wheel and accelerator pedal) indices. Driving performance was measured as the time taken to complete the course. As predicted, increased anxiety had a negative effect on processing efficiency as indexed by the self-report, pupillary response and variability of gaze data. Predicted differences due to dispositional levels of anxiety were also found in the driving control and effort data. Although both groups of drivers performed worse under the threatening condition, the performance of the high trait anxious individuals was affected to a greater extent by the anxiety manipulation than the performance of the low trait anxious drivers. The findings suggest that processing efficiency theory holds promise as a theoretical framework for examining the relationship between anxiety and performance in sport.  相似文献   

Coordination variability and skill development in expert triple jumpers   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Wilson C  Simpson SE  van Emmerik RE  Hamill J 《Sports biomechanics / International Society of Biomechanics in Sports》2008,7(1):2-9

The aim of this study was to examine the influence of skill of expert triple jumpers on the coordination variability of lower extremity intra-limb couplings. In contrast to the traditional motor learning perspective, we hypothesized that as skill and thus performance increases, movement coordination variability will also increase. Three-dimensional kinematic and ground reaction force data were collected during the hop-step transition phase of the triple jump. Relative motion plots and a modified vector coding technique were used to quantify the coordination variability across the trials. The results were consistent with a U-shaped curve, representing coordination variability, as skill increases. The high coordination variability in less skilled athletes is present while the appropriate characteristics defining the movement coordination patterns are acquired. This coordination variability may not be beneficial to performance. As the refinement of these characteristics is achieved, coordination variability decreases, resulting in a more consistent or regulated performance. In the final stages of developing a skilled performance, a functional variability is accessed that brings flexibility to the system allowing it to cope with perturbations. This study highlights the need to address the learning effect when analysing coordination variability from a dynamical systems perspective.  相似文献   

Race and Manners for Southern Girls and Boys: “The Miss Minerva” Books and Race Relations in a Southern Children's Series     

John Scott Wilson 《Journal of American culture (Malden, Mass. : 2003)》1994,17(3):69-74

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A Valuable Source for Education: the Scottish Government Yearbook 1976‐92     

Wilson Bain 《Educational studies》1993,19(3):373-377

This paper assesses the significance of articles in the Scottish Government Yearbook, 1976‐92, for understanding of educational issues in that period. Experienced writers contributed 20 such articles on schooling, training, tertiary education, the Technical and Vocational Education Initiative, parental choice and devolved management. All are important for aspects of education systems in the United Kingdom, either because they concern distinctively Scottish approaches or they explore common themes across Britain and beyond. Many draw upon the history and cultures of Scottish and English education, to place educational policy in as broad a social context as is possible within the compass of 10 to 40 pages. The Yearbook has now metamorphosed into a quarterly, Scottish Affairs. It has played a distinctive role as an annual of record and debate to serve the present decade.  相似文献   

Institutional Repositories: Faculty Deposits,Marketing, and the Reform of Scholarly Communication     

Ronald C. Jantz  Myoung C. Wilson 《The Journal of Academic Librarianship》2008,34(3):186-195

This study explores faculty deposits in institutional repositories (IR) within selected disciplines and identifies the diverse navigational paths to IR sites from library Web site homepages. The statistical relationship between the development of an IR and the presence of a Web site dedicated to the reform of traditional scholarly communication is also explored. The implications for the development of institutional repositories are highlighted.  相似文献   

Metropolis redux: the unique importance of library skills in informatics.     

Samuel Bishop King  Kate MacDonald 《Journal of the Medical Library Association》2004,92(2):209-217

OBJECTIVES: The objective is to highlight the important role that librarians have in teaching within a successful medical informatics program. Librarians regularly utilize skills that, although not technology dependent, are essential to conducting computer-based research. The Metropolis analogy is used to introduce the part librarians play as informatics partners. Science fiction is a modern mythology that, beyond a technical exterior, has lasting value in its ability to reflect the human condition. The teaching of medical informatics, an intersection of technology and knowledge, is also most relevant when it transcends the operation of databases and systems. Librarians can teach students to understand, research, and utilize information beyond specific technologies. METHODS: A survey of twenty-six informatics programs was conducted during 2002, with specific emphasis on the role of the library service. RESULTS: The survey demonstrated that librarians currently do have a central role in informatics instruction, and that library-focused skills form a significant part of the curriculum in many of those programs. In addition, librarians have creative opportunities to enhance their involvement in informatics training. As a sample program in the study, the development of the informatics course at the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences is included. CONCLUSIONS: Medical informatics training is a wonderful opportunity for librarians to collaborate with professionals from the sciences and other information disciplines. Librarians' unique combination of human research and technology skills provides a valuable contribution to any program.  相似文献   

Masked by Trust: Bias in Library Discovery     

Ellen K. Wilson 《Public Services Quarterly》2020,16(1):32-33

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‘It's The Catcher in the Rye… He said it was the kind of book you made your own': Finding Holden in Contemporary YA Literature     

Steven T. Bickmore  Kate Youngblood 《English in Education》2014,48(3):250-263

Published in 1951,The Catcher in the Rye encapsulated teenage angst. Some time ago David Belbin mused about the influence of Catcher on the proliferation and popularity of YA literature. Salinger's recent death has sparked a renewed interest in his work and more attention on Holden and his inheritors. This article discusses how five recent adolescent novels, with male protagonists, mirror Holden's adolescent paralysis. They exist in a liminal state between childhood and adulthood, attempting to understand the phonies around them. These protagonists help define the nature of the ‘lost’ adolescent in the current golden age of YA literature.  相似文献   

Degree Completers at Baccalaureate Arts and Sciences Institutions and the Contemporary U.S. Macroeconomy     

Rachel Wilson  Brian Yontz 《Innovative Higher Education》2015,40(1):51-61

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